by Abigail Monot
Great kitchen lighting design typically utilizes a large amount of lighting (which means more than just installing a few extra ceiling roses). Kitchen lighting needs a variety of types of lighting for different areas and purposes. The absolutely worst way to illuminate a kitchen is using bright fluorescent ceiling strip lights. They’re certainly very bright – but also flat, cold, and guaranteed to give you a headache into the bargain.
An obvious problem with central ceiling lights in a kitchen is that you inevitably create dark spots and are always standing in your own shadow. A common solution to this is to install banks of halogen down lights uniformly across the ceiling with additional lighting for worktops and hobs.
This certainly does the job fairly well, but is not without its own list of issues: halogen lights run at a very high temperature; they have a short lifespan; and they are without question the most costly solution as regards running kitchen lighting. A staggering ninety percent of the cost of halogen based lighting (and indeed, incandescent lighting in general) is the electricity they quite literally burn.
This almost certainly accounts for the surge in popularity of low energy, low temperature LED kitchen lighting. With mains lighting (GU10 type fittings) it’s just a matter of replacing existing spotlights with their LED counterparts. For low voltage fittings (MR16 type), first replace regular 12v transformers with one (or possibly more, according to the number of lights) 12v constant voltage LED driver before switching to LED equivalent light bulbs.
When installing LED spotlights there are 3 main areas to bear in mind, these being: brightness (or luminosity); color temperature (whether the light appears cool and blue or warm and yellow); and beam angle (tightly focused or widely dispersed). It’s a good idea to get as close as possible on these three areas to the qualities of the halogen lamps you’re replacing.
We are used to measuring brightness in terms of wattage, but an LED light bulb will have a wattage rating at least ten percent that of it’s equivalent incandescent or halogen bulb. Therefore, when replacing a 35w halogen lamp use an LED of 3w or above, and likewise replace a 50w with a 5w LED, etc.
Color temperature is used to measure how warm or cool a light seems. LED lights are available in a variety of white color temperatures (and also, colors) but since it has always been easier to manufacture blue LEDs, many cheap LEDs tend to have a cold/bluish tinge. Go for warm white (color temperatures below 3500K) for a reasonable approximation to the kind of white light normally associated with halogen lamps.
The narrower the beam angle (45 degrees for example) the tighter and more spot-like any light will appear, while 120 degrees gives an even spread of light and eliminates hot-spots and glare. Arguably the best LED spotlight presently on the market as a direct replacement for halogen spots is the Zenigata LED from Sharp.
Determining how artificial light appears to the eye often owes less to the light itself than to the surface it is aimed at. A warm feeling is easily obtained by pointing spot lighting at areas that are themselves warmly colored, such as terracotta tiling, any type of wood or even just a warmly painted wall. By contrast, a dramatic effect can be had by simply throwing blue LED light against dark or hard surfaces – blue or green tiles, granite, enamel and steel all lend themselves to this treatment.
Use lights with differing characteristics against different textures and colors to obtain different effects in specific zones in the kitchen. There are so many options, especially with LED strip lighting systems for accenting plinths, coving, worktops and just about anything else you could think of. The best advice though is stick with just one or two ideas – you’ll be surprised how stunning even a modicum of LED kitchen lighting looks.
Tags : Cooking